Thursday 12 October - Thornley


More exploring the north east but first need to work out where I am. After the north east not sure where to go next. Lots of places I didn't go to on my way north and so may have to do a bit of zig zagging.

posted at 12:08 in /where (permanent link)

Thursday 12 October - Elslack


Am tucked away in the Yorkshire Dales and so have no mobile signal so may be a while before this gets posted (though next week there will be wireless broadband. Seems that lots of pubs are putting in wireless broadband as a way of encouraging people in - and a very fine strategy it is too). Made an early start (for a change) and look at the map to try and work out exactly where I am - close to Shotton Colliery, but no sign of the colliery. A memorial to the wheel but otherwise it's all business parks and call centres. Go into Peterlee, which I think I remember from ads in the 70s saying it was a new town and place of opportunities. It seems to be a new town because I can't find any centre to it and end up in the Asda car park. It's only as I drive out I see any sign of a town centre (A sure sign of a new town). Think that the quote 'if you don't know where you are going, no wind is the right direction' may have to be re-written as 'if you don't know where you are going, you will end up in a supermarket car park'.

I find some industry in Billingham, lots of pipes and towers, steam towers and metal and wagons delivering or picking things up. Then on to Stockton which seems a cheery town. Not rich, but not poor. Some nice Georgian buildings in the centre. The usual shops and shopping centres, covered market - a couple of pig's heads at a butcher's stall, bizarrely looking very happy. There are more smokers about and more people with disabilities (or lots of sticks and shopmobility scooters). Not sure whether this is a sign of industrial injuries or smoking, or both. I also see lots of real care in the community. Elderly people out with sons and daughters, or grandchildren, chatting doing their shopping and seeming to have a good time. Lots of dads looking after their kids, the day is sunny which always helps.

Next is Middlesbrough, which seems to have had a lot of investment - central spaces all landscaped. Civic buildings across the centuries (including the 20th) which have a sense of solidity. Fountains dance and people watch. It is newly turfed, not sure whether it is a new space or whether just replacing the grass after summer droughts. Everything is on a bigger scale, but the shops are the same. But today is a blue cross day at Debenhams and M&S have a 50% sale and there seems to be nothing we like more than a bargain. Lunchtime is a frenzy of women seeking bargains. What men there are, are sitting waiting patiently while the hunting and gathering goes on. There looks to be an interesting photography exhibition but can't find it, or perhaps it only exists on posters around the town.

Then Darlington and the regeneration is still going on here. They are turning the centre of the town into a pedestrian area which seems to mean lots of men in hard hats working away and cutting paving stones. There are signs 'Stop Tesco, save our town centre' all around the market. Go back to the car and try and work out next step of the route, running out of time and still lots of places to try and visit. Am pondering my map when the car park attendant comes by, then have to shuffle through the dozens of car park tickets I have been keeping for some sort of memento (or collage). He is very friendly and chatty and asks where I have been and takes a few postcards. It is unfair to generalise about regions, because there are friendly and unfriendly people everywhere; but the north east has been the friendliest part of Britain on all my travels.

By now my brain is spinning and head off towards the north west. Traffic reports say that the main roads are busy with rush hour traffic so take a back road over the dales. It is the most glorious autumn sunset. Rolling green fields (up hill, down dale) speckled with houses and livestock. Smoke rising from the chimneys, adding to the mist rising up from the fields. The sky duck egg blue, the clouds pink to mauve. And a nice inn to stay in, if I can just find the turning and some petrol.

posted at 12:07 in /travel (permanent link)

Wednesday 11 October - Thornley


Am in a hotel but have no idea exactly where I am. Somewhere between the A19 and Durham, but where is a mystery. But at least I have a warm room after a rather wet day.

Began the day in Melrose which is very pretty if rather proper. Must attract either lots of tourists or be a rich area because the shops and hotels are all delightful. Had been looking forward to the drive to Newcastle because the road goes over the border and through some very lovely countryside. But it is either foggy or low cloud. Am not sure but visibility varies between 20 yards and 100 yards. I creep along cautiously when visibility is low and manage to get rid of the bus who seems determined to sit in my back seat. But it is a tiring drive - the twists and turns of the road which would be fun in sunshine are less so in this weather. Stop at the borders viewpoint but can see hand in front of my face, but not a lot further.

Am glad to get into Newcastle and out of the fog. It is the first time I have seen serious shops for about 10 days and it seems rather distracting. Lots of very pretty things to be bought but after days of the Co-op it all seems rather lavish and wasteful. What happens to all the stuff that doesn't get bought? This happens to me on my travels - I either seem to be doing towns and cities which basically means 5 shopping centres a day (and can now do a sociological segmentation of the towns based on the shops) or am in deep rural and there are few shops. Both have their attractions, but the switch between the two is always a bit odd. And by this stage in my trip have got used to all my worldly goods being contained in my car (and this time I have a considerable larder as well as everything else) and am wearing increasingly eccentric combinations of clothes as the dirty clothes outnumber the clean.

Back in the North East I buy a lunchbox in lakeland (for aforementioned larder) and the lady asks me what I am taking photographs of (am wearing camera around my neck and looking rather art teacherish which seems to be fine here but did get rather a lot of stares in Melrose - Barbours more appropriate). The centre of Newcastle is a very fine place with some lovely buildings. This is a Wednesday lunchtime and not a Friday night but think that the reputation for drinking may be in part due to retail development. Have noticed that the move towards segmentation and zoning means that beyond the shopping centres, there are the rows of 'drinking sheds' - the bar chains that compete for share of throat and have 3 for 2 offers on beer and cocktails to lure drinkers in. You don't notice this in smaller towns, but those whose centres have been completely re-developed seem almost to have drinking parks like the retail parks.

Get over the Tyne Bridge into Gateshead and visit the Baltic Exchange. The working quays of the Tyne now replaced by luxury loft living and very nice it looks (if just like every other luxury loft/waterside development). As ever there is a changeover in the exhibitions but a very interesting video/sound installation of about 20 people (on video screens) singing along to John Lennon songs. The rain sets in and I get lost in an industrial estate in Gateshead. Find my way out and head off through Jarrow, South Shields and Sunderland. By the time I get to Sunderland it is dark and I stop in a car park surrounded by high rise blocks but can't work out where to go next. Look for a hotel but can't find one and after several loops around the one way system decide to head south in the hopes of a travel inn. After miles see a sign for a hotel and follow it - some miles later find the hotel and get a room. No idea where I am but it is a room and it is warm.

posted at 12:07 in /travel (permanent link)