Friday 31st January 2009


I have just realised that I didn't post the blog I wrote while in Scotland in the late autumn. Posting it now but makes a strange timeline. Sorry.

Am sitting at my desk planning a quick trip around the country to see how things have changed with recession. Might wait a few weeks until there is little more daylight. People don't want to talk to strangers when it is dark. And it is getting lighter now. Hooray.

posted at 17:44 in /travel (permanent link)

Saturday 1st November - All Soul's Day - Carterway Sands, Northumberland


We started the day with a frenzy of activity and all the cleaning and tidying was done and everyone headed off in their various directions home. I drifted up to Lochawe village and St. Conan's Kirk. It looks old but turns out to have been built in the 1880s and then extended through the early part of the 20th century. It's a mixture of styles but fascinating in its eccentricity. It has the perfect view out across the loch. The morning was quiet and still. Cloudy and so the blue water of sunny mornings is replaced by black. Very moody when the snow topped hills and autumn leaves are reflected in the water. Picture postcard pretty, but also very cold. I am stalked by a robin, I assume hoping for a spot of breakfast.

I then have to start my journey south. Down through the highlands, past Loch Lomond, Glasgow, through the borders, stop just into England to see my cousin, then on again across country. The roads here are narrow country roads and there is little traffic. I see a number of birds of prey sitting on fence posts within a couple of feet of me as I pass. Not quite sure what, but one is small and grey and white, two others are much, much bigger; one grey, the other reddish brown. I have always liked the idea of owning a bird of prey. Not very practical when living in a city, although it would be one way to keep the mice at bay. The sun is getting low and the colours are drifting towards technicolour. I can see for miles, the countryside is low and rolling. To the west I can see the Solway Firth and the outline of the Lake District. The houses are strung out along the roads, but few villages.

Then it is back on main roads to cross over to the east coast. I drive along the line of Hadrian's Wall and then along what are probably great driving roads in daylight. It's only 5 o'clock but it is already dark and I am tired. I'm glad to find a room for the night and stop. I've been driving so long that even though I have stopped I can still feel the engine.

posted at 17:43 in /travel (permanent link)

Friday 31st October, Hallowe'en - South Lochaweside


As I lie in bed I can see the sky pink as the sun rises. The colours intensified as they hit the reddish brown bracken. Another frosty morning of sunshine. The mountains are still topped with snow, although the snow is now receding. After yesterday's long walk we take the day more gently and go to the McIntyre monument in Dalmally. My great grandmother was a McIntyre and from these parts so perhaps he is a relation. The walk up to the monument is through conifers which always give a slightly spooky sense of being watched. On the top is another great view of Loch Awe. To the east are the Highlands, ranging away into the distance and all still well covered in snow. Down below the tree line there are stripes of dark conifers interlaced with golden larches.

Later I wandered along the lochside. The water is still and looks cold. First thing this morning and it looked as if there was ice on the surface. The roots of the trees have been revealed by the water and they twist and turn, creating elaborate knots to hold the trees strong into the earth. I startle a heron which takes off across the loch.

I can hear the sounds of oars on the water and hear voices but two small boats are too far away to be see. There are few people around now but in the season this is big fishing country and the loch is filled with people fishing from small boats. At 24 miles Loch Awe is the longest sea loch but just off the tourist track of people travelling up to the west coast. The fishing here must be good the walls of the bar have cases showing huge stuffed trout, all record fish weighing more than 18lbs. They seem to be monster trout, unlike you'd see at the fishmonger.

The house we are staying in is supposed to have ghosts, and tonight must be the night to see them. But a late whisky and staring at the Milky Way some more and I sleep like a baby and don't see or hear a thing.

posted at 17:42 in /travel (permanent link)

Thursday 30th October - South Lochaweside


I arrived safely in the Highlands managing to miss any more snow on the roads and to find the hotel. I am here for the 50th birthday party of a friend; others arrived at the weekend so everyone is well settled in. I arrived as it was getting dark on Wednesday and so it was difficult to get any sense of the surroundings. It was easy to see the stars. There is little risk of light pollution up here and with clear frosty nights the stars are spectacular. The Milky Way is easily visible and the sky seems filled with stars twinkling at different intensities.

The plan is to go for a walk. This makes me slightly anxious as I love to walk but tend towards the gentle stroll on a flattish surface. I am in the company of serious walkers keen to add more Munros to their collection. I am reassured that there is a gentle start to the walk and I don't have to climb to the top.

The weather is perfect, still and sunny. The colours are glorious, the bracken has turned to reddish brown, the trees still have their leaves but they are golden to red, the heather has almost finished flowering. We are walking up to the Cruachan reservoir. It is a hydro-electric power station - when power is needed the sluices are opened and water drops down to create immediate electricity, perhaps for a post East Enders power surge. It takes us about an hour and a half to walk up to the dam and then the party splits into two with the keen heading upwards to climb the Munro. The path from here gets much steeper and the top third of the mountain is covered in snow.

I stay on the lower road and head off to another lower hill where we stop for lunch. We can see for miles. Loch Awe is below us, catching the light. The visibility is good and to our right we can see the hills of Mull covered in snow. A lighthouse glinting white against the dark blue sea. Oban must be tucked away down there behind a hill. In the distance are three mountains which we decide must be Jura. We are about 600 metres above sea level and can see lochs and hills, trees in their autumn colours, the odd house scattered here and there and hardly a sound.

We wander around the edge of the reservoir and as we look up to the top of the hills there seem to be specks moving. It is the other part of the group who have made it to the top. They are scarcely visible without binoculars but we wave anyway. By this time the sun is fading and it is getting colder. It is time to head back down the hill and find tea in a nearby hotel. Tired legs, this is enough exercise for one day

posted at 17:42 in /travel (permanent link)